If your only alternative is to trap and remove an unwanted squirrel, such as a fox squirrel (Sciurus niger), eastern gray squirrel (Sciurus carolinensis), western gray squirrel (Sciurus griseus), or a tassel-eared squirrel (Sciurus aberti), you should first check with your state wildlife management agency. If you can legally trap squirrels, your city, county, or state may require you to obtain a permit. There may be certain circumstances when it is necessary to obtain the services of a professional trapper to capture and remove squirrels.
If it is legal for you to trap, your next step will be to find a suitable trap. Most large farm supply stores will have a selection of live animal traps to choose from. Cage traps sell for about $25.00 for a small 5" x 5" x 18" Havahart trap. Be sure to purchase a trap that is large enough to accommodate the squirrel you wish to trap. Traps should come with instructions to bait and set them. Be sure you understand and follow the directions. Peanut butter (crunchy) is considered a good bait for squirrels. Placing a spoonful on the trip-lever usually does the trick. However, squirrels that have become "trap-shy" may require additional enticement. It may be necessary to pre-bait the trap with these steps: locate your trap exactly where it will be when you intend to trap for removal, place bait on the trip-lever, but wire the trap open to allow the squirrel free access. Do this for several days in a row. Pre-baiting greatly reduces trap-shyness. Also, squirrels are very visually oriented. In addition to peanut butter, baits can include large nuts such as walnuts, almonds, or pecans. These can be wired to a cardboard or light plywood substrate that can, in turn, be attached to the trip-lever or pan. Highly dextrous squirrels can sometimes remove peanut butter and nuts without tripping the trap. Wiring the nuts directly to the substrate will greatly enhance your trapping success.
Use more than one trap whenever possible to improve capture success.
First, locate the path that the squirrel is using to your attic, crawl space, etc. Once you discover the path, place the trap accordingly. Always set the trap on a stable surface, such as the ground, a porch, or a deck. Never hang the trap. Traps must be checked daily; more frequently is preferable. Cover 50% of the trap with a cloth or tarp to give the squirrel a place of shelter. This cover will also help protect the bait from the elements. Once a squirrel is trapped, it must be removed as quickly as possible to prevent undue stress to the animal. Be sure you are wearing heavy work gloves while handling the trap. Even if relocation is legal, it doesn't mean it is humane or makes good environmental sense. Translocated squirrels must find food and shelter while avoiding predators. If weather is harsh, the likelihood of survival is even further diminished.
Understand that trapping squirrels does run the risk of the abandonment of young depending on the time of year.
If it is legal to relocate and you are aware of suitable habitat (mature woods with seed-bearing trees), release the squirrel at least 15 miles from your location. An ideal location would have a barrier, such as a river, lake, or superhighway between your location and the relocation spot.
Be sure to correct the problem that led to the squirrel moving in as quickly as possible, once you are certain that all the squirrels have been removed and no other animal is using the hole! Entry points are often located in trim and at the bottom corners of roofs near the ends of soffits. If a squirrel finds a small opening in a piece of trim, they can gnaw it into an entry hole in minutes.
Additional information on hole closing, euthanasia, carcass disposal, translocation, and monitoring can be found at ICWDM.org
Resources (online):
Tree Squirrel Control
